Advertising executives regale with us while concocting publicities which follow our mentalities.  Return to nature, return to source..., hop on the marketing train so to speak, but first take a few moments to hopefully leave with a better understanding of the truth behind natural cosmetics.  Keep in mind, that publicity is made to sell, it is not there to be honest on the composition of the product, but to push you to buy it and for that, manufacturers and advertising executives are ready with all.

Ready? Then, turn your radio or television set off and pass to what cannot lie!

The composition of a product whether termed as a natural cosmetic, organic cosmetic, bio cosmetic, phyto cosmetic or what ever marketing decides to use, all will have to adapt to what is otherwise called the INCI. (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)

Some extracts for this article are drawn and translated are from the following French publications as reference:

• Rita Stiens, la vérité sur les cosmétiques, Éditions lpm (a must read for those that understand French!)
• Chantal Clergeaud, votre beauté au naturel, Éditions Dangles
• Dans la jungles des cosmétiques pseudo naturels, Anne Andrault (site Econovateur)
• And mostly, our knowledge on the subject…

Here in Canada, as of November 2006, the composition of the product, otherwise called the INCI. (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) will come into full compliance.  What does that mean and hold for you the consumer and us as the manufacture?

INCI, obligatory since the 1st of January 1998, is certainly incomplete (as it misses precise details on perfumes, concentrations, part of plants used, etc.) but was formed in essence to allow consumers to have a solid base to evaluate what really the product between their hands contains when(if) a manufacture has followed the INCI guidelines(few have though, as INCI was never sincerely enforced, but all that is about to change).

For IntelCosmet, it means no change and is rather seen as a milestone advance towards the real truths for that of consumers.  It is in turn for you the consumer to have the ability to make clear and healthy choices, should it be of concern.  As we have always followed that of INCI and continue to adapt to any and all changes within these guidelines when required.  INCI allows for the use of one standard language of identification acceptance towards what is really in a cosmetic product.  

Some bases: The components are indexed on packing or the note in a predetermined order:

• The order depends on the concentration. In fact, the first components indicated ( from 4 to 8 ) constitute the larger part of the product. Substances representing less than 1% are represented in the disorder.  Thus an active agent accounting for 0,003% of the product can be found to note in front of a component accounting for 0,99%.
• The dyes are noted at the end of the list under denomination Ci (Color Index) followed by a number of 5 digits (corresponding to the colors).  For the products of make-up, them dyes are registered between hooks, and signs it +/- means that these dyes are perhaps not all present in the same product.

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It is not a question to make the turn of all the ingredients in this presentation, but of some which raise the most questions, rightly, and to re-examine some of these bases.

The secrecy of a beautiful skin: a good hygiene of life.

It is quite a useless battle to apply skin care products for nothing to paste creams morning and evening if you do not have a balanced diet – rich in vitamins such as that contained fruits, vegetables, grains and fresh food, or that you misuse sun exposure, or that you do not drink enough pure water, do not sleep sufficiently and that you expose without protection your skin to the winter cold. The skin can be nourished only by the nutritive substances brought by blood. Cosmetics can have a complementary action but does not replace a balanced hygiene of life.

The quality and the effectiveness of a product depends on 80% of excipient (bases): For the most part, the active ingredients account for only about 20% of the mix. Even the most powerful actives are useless if the excipient is of *** quality. What makes the richness of an excipient (an emulsion for example), it is the quality of oils, waxes and the emulsifiers which constitute it. Some excipients are a mine of active substances whereas the others do not bring anything to the skin.

Principal components of a cosmetic product

• Excipient: One understands by excipient, or bases, is the most significant part from the quantitative point of view: water, oil, waxes and emulsifiers for an emulsion water, surface-active and thickeners for shampoos or gel showers mix fatty alcohols, waxes and oils for lipsticks.
• Active principles or agents: it is these which confer their properties creating the magic within cosmetics. Hydrating substances or protective solar filters are active agents, just like vitamins.
• Auxiliary substances (additives): These are used to stabilize cosmetic preparations as well as preservation and that of antioxidants.
• Perfumes: a product may not necessarily contain any perfume, but aromatic values may strongly help influence a decision to purchase

Publicity for cosmetics presents the world with a backward view to us while almost never speaking about excipient, however if the determining factors in the quality of a product are the whole of a product, then the common exaggerations on that of the actives or results is by far missing the real point and the real sense of the actives are left in questionable states.

The basic ingredients of an emulsion are either that of mineral oils and silicones, or of oils and natural extracts.

Mineral oils : cheap substances : The paraffin’s derived from oil are very advantageous for cosmetic industry - because they are at the same time simple to work with and very good to market - but not for the skin. These artificial oils prevent the skin from breathing. Mineral oils as Paraffinum liquidum, are made up of hydrocarbon chains which cannot be metabolized by the skin. A major disadvantage for a face cream of daily use. These oils do not stimulate the various functions of the skin, they clog and impede the valuable skin functions .

The OMS research group proved that mineral oils can be stored or semi-absorbed to find their way to damage the liver, or to incite inflammation of the valves of the heart (due to paraffin waxes for example). Currently, only some mineral oils and some petroleum products were tested, but the alarming results should commit us right now to give up these products, at least in the manufacture of the lipsticks where the highest concentrations paraffin bases are found.

Silicone oils and waxes: These entirely synthetic substances, derived from silicon are also found to contain oxygen atoms, and are used in a multitude of products. Dimethicone is one of these raw materials most used for formulas of protection for the skin, capillary care and lipsticks. One also may find Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, Phenyl trimethicone, Stearyl dimethicone etc. Silicone oils are soft and are apply well over the skin, but still, it is necessary that they are of good quality. They are preferable by far over mineral oils, but they have a serious disadvantage, they are far from biodegradable and harmful for the environment – and thus indirectly for our health. In addition, in shampoos, they would tend to choke the scalp from breathing.

Oils and vegetable butters: in harmony with the skin: Produced by living organisms (seeds and fruits). On the skin, a natural vegetable oil differently behaves from different from that of paraffin oil since it acts in the direction of the metabolism, keeps the skin smooth and stimulates the formation of protective film upon the skin.

Contrary to paraffin oils, natural oils and vegetable butters have excellent properties due to the significant active agents that they contain. Many vegan oils and butters are rich in vital vitamins and essential fatty acids.

The proportion of native oils(natural) in the excipient is a quality standard for natural cosmetic formulas, this is one principle reason affecting skin softness.

Used in hydrogenated form(e.g.: Hydrogenated castor oil), they have the consistency of a wax, making it possible to increase the consistency and the firmness of a product. They lose nevertheless their true nutraceutic properties.

Very thick in nature, these natural butters, oils and waxes do not make it possible to obtain liquid based creams but easily apply well over the skin. One thus finds formulates using them more and more in their esterified form, which makes application of the product better and answers the needs of the modern consumer (like the speed of absorption for example). Esterified oils are produced in laboratories, either by synthesis, or by decomposition and re-composition of the links of natural oils.

Natural waxes : soft emulsifiers: Vegetable and animal waxes contain beneficial principles for the skin: beeswax, wax of carnauba, wax of candellia, lanolin (wool wax) and alcohols of lanolin, jojoba oil (is a wax not an oil), shea butter (hybrid of wax and fatty oil), etc.

In the majority of oils, the insaponifiable rate ranges between 0,5 and 2 % whereas, in shea butter, it can reach up to 15% (in a good avocado oil, it does not exceed 6%). This insaponifiable part is very invaluable and counts among the most significant of active substances as it penetrates the skin well, softens it, balances moisture and improves absorption of other beneficial natural active agents.

Alcohols and fatty acids : Alcohols are employed like gelling and Co-emulsifiers. They leave the skin soft and velvety. One finds them under names: Cetyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol or Myristil alcohol.

Fatty acids stabilize a product and have emulsifying properties. Among the most used: Lauric acid, Stearic acid, Myristic acid and Palmitic acid.

Linoleic (Linoleic acid) is one of the most significant polyunsaturated fatty acids.

These fatty acids are excellent ingredients for cosmetics. They are found in almost all natural forms of oils and butters.

Gelling : The flour of Guar, carob core flour, the Arabic gum, agar-agar, algines and the starch of corn, rice or potato are common to gels of vegetable origin.  Xanthene, most common to gelling, is cultivated from a biotech process.  Gelatin is of animal origin where bentonite is of mineral origin.  Cellulose and methyl cellulose are gelling agents of natural semi synthetic origins.

Active ingredients : Vis-a-vis the exaggerations, for the misinformation and advertising concerning the majority of the cosmetic products, it should be remembered that the insane hopes woken up by "the active ingredients" from that of marketing statements do not have any measurement with their real performances.

On the purely quantitative level, the majority of the active substances represent a negligible percentage (0,1% or even 0,0… %). These active ingredients have a largely over-estimated role as seen is most publicities.  The principal role of a care cream is to bring essential fats and water each time used as necessary, a created hydrolipidic film that is well balanced being the best guarantee to a beautiful maintained skin.  Each skin care product formula of this type should included one excipient (basic substance) of great quality, some active substances and possibly some additional ingredients to convey the active agents to the skin.

What determines the quality of a cream?

They are the ingredients mentioned the first in a declaration INCI (either more than 90%) which determine the performances of a cosmetic.  They quickly make it possible to differentiate the good products from the others. All the declarations for the majority start with Aqua (water).

• A cream deserves a no-claims bonus if the Aqua is followed by that of vegetable oils like Ricinus communis(castor oil), Persea gratissima(lawyer oil), Prunus dulcis(sweet almond oil), Vitis vinifera(grape seed oil), Calendula officinalis(calendula oil), Olea europaea (olive oil) or of a vegetable wax like Cera alba, Cera Flava (beeswax), Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba oil/wax), Theobroma cacao (cocoa butter), Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) or even Sodium stearate or Triglycerides caprylic/capric (obtained from vegetable oils) etc.
• It receives a malus when Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum, Ozokerite, Cera microcristallina, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, etc. are found in first places on the list
• Cyclomethicone (silicone oil) can be regarded as satisfactory from a dermatological viewpoint, but unsatisfactory from an ecological point of view.

The surface-active issue : Always in the collimator...

Natural or synthetic substances, they both have in their molecules a water soluble part and another soluble in oil. One uses them for their foaming, detergent properties, emulsifying, in shampoos, toothpastes, soaps, creams, shaving creams and tonics, cleansing milks, etc. They can be anion, cation, amphitricha or non-ionic.

In traditional products they are very much used because of their ease and ridiculous price, an excellent conservation and a good stability is achieved as well. The most used are:

• SLS Sodium-laureth-sulphate or sodium-lauryl-sulphate, is found to be aggressive for the mucous membranes, irritation causing and allergic reactions to the skin, the eyes and mucous membranes.
• The polyethylenglycols(PEG) are obtained petrol(gas) and are extremely dangerous to handle. Moreover, there use increase the phenomenon of pimples and black points.
• The monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine(MEA, DEA and TEA) which can lead to the appearance of nitrosamines(carcinogenic)

In the natural product category, lauryl-sulphate and the disodium-laureth-sulphate are drawn from the oil of coconut or palm, betain(a component of the coconut butter) are the principal surface-active ones used. They are very safe and soft for the skin.

Substances at the risk : The dangers go from the simple irritation to the risk of cancer.

• BHT and BHA : (Used as Antioxidants) In high amounts, they have carcinogenic effects on the stomach(thus their prohibition in foodstuffs). Simple solution, they could be replaced by Tocopherol(Vitamin E)
• Organohalogen compounds : Halogenation consists in introducing into the molecules of chlorine, bromine or iodine. A sign of a synthetic conservative. Have a potential allergen and are highly reactive. If they are absorbed into tissue, they begin to decompose where damage begins apparent to skin.
• Formaldehydes : (Carcinogenic substance) Their rate should not exceed 0,2% for conservation, 0,1% in products of oral care and 5% in hardeners for nails.
• Formaldehyde separators : Formaldehyde, DMDM hydantoin, bronopol. These substances are able to denature proteins.
• Nitrosamines : Penetrate via low quality or impure raw materials. Known carcinogens
• EDTA and Etidronic acid : Have the property to fix itself to cellular tissue and are thus seen critical from the point of a toxicological view.
• Musky compounds : These artificial odorous substances which very stable are also able to fix to cellular tissue. Known to be carcinogenic.
• Substances obtained starting from PEG and from PPG : Have the consistency of a liquid or a wax. Obtained from reagent, an extremely poison military gas.
• Aluminum salts and triclosane : (Used in deodorants)Known tocause inflammatory reactions. Glands can be damagedwith repeated use. Research currently in progress makes a polemical ingredient of it because they could be fixed in certainparts of the brain. Triclosan is a highly reactive chlorinated product. As a bactericide, it can prevent the correct operation of the liver. It is often tainted with dioxins, very dangerous, even in negligible quantities.
• Cosmetic dyes and dyes for hair : American researchers noted that the use of dyes for the hair multiplied by five the risk of breast cancer.
• Aromatic amines : (Basic substances of oxidation dyes) Known to betoxic, which can be absorbed by the skin.
• Azo dyes : Dyes containing synthetic tar with amino groups, particularly critical on the toxicological level.
• Quats and polyquats : (INCI: Quaternium plus a figure)Usedasan anti-static agent. CTAC(Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride) and the DSDMAC(Quaternium 5). Biodegradable, but slight effects of irritation on the skin are common.
• Esters of quats : (natural product claimed gentle forhair care): Effects of scalp irritation and *** bio-degradability.

All this shows you that behind the cosmetics preparations and formulations, hide ingredients that can be very good, very *** risk enhancers, etc. This requires a little knowledge on the subject and a certain eyes critic.

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How to find oneself here in all this? Here's a little about what is Natural...

COMMON NATURAL INGREDIENTS USED IN COSMETICS

• Fresh foodstuff group : You have some in your refrigerators and your cupboards: honey, eggs, fresh cream, cucumbers, tomato's, dairy products, etc. All these ingredients and many others have properties of which you do not imagine the benefits for your face, your body or your hair. Strange, all throughout history the finest examples of beauty well knew the hidden natural benefits of such produce. One can easily integrate them into simple and fast recipes, without conservatives, dangerous dyes or risk.
• Oils, butters and vegetable waxes : These are basic substances for the natural formulations, very rich in nutriments, from which your skin and your hair will draw the greatest benefits. There is a great quantity of different oils well adapted to each type of skin/hair.
• Floral water, hydrolates, floral infusions : These waters borrow properties from their respective plants. Bought ready-made or prepared by oneself, they have different actions according the plant base and distillation process.
• Essential oils : Highly effective natural wonders, they have different and varying multiple actions. They must be handled with prudence in that of their concentrations. Some so rare will never be found in that of cosmetics, with most filled with highly active ingredients that cross the outer skin barrier to provide essential and natural benefits and nutrients.
• Clays : Mineral rich and oligo-elements, they have many applications of both internal and external use.
• Algae : very hydrating, rich in vitamins, minerals and oligo-elements.
• Rassoul : Clay found mostly in Arabic countries, it is used more and more in cosmetics, in particular for that of capillary care.

Natural ingredient quality is of concern as many inexpensive and inferior general mass cultivations exist(profit vs. quality), careful choice and selection is required on behalf of the consumer.  Many "buy bulk shops" "Make your Own" allow full display of raw materials where open contact from contamination is highly possible, not to mention that the raw material in question is far from the high quality of certified therapeutic materials.  The quality of these raw ingredients is highly questionable and at risk where the old saying of "Buyer Beware" is a strong point to raise.

Here at IntelCosmet, we have researched raw materials for well over 15 years before formation of our company as it is known today.  Moreover, it goes far beyond the choice of these select and rare exotic ingredients in which our product formulations are born.  Careful attention to exact relational synergies between ingredients and skin harmony is one of our key fundamental requirements towards the success of our products, one that allows for products formulated to meet individual skin needs upon request, as we like to say at times, " Nature's living gift to you "

A bounty of homemade remedies exist today creating concern when using potent extracts to formulate personal care products at home or under-qualified centers.  Proper training in the use of such botanicals is a must where in-depth understanding of the skin is required.  As Natural's become more and more popular with new brands almost showing up daily, time is at hand of the savvy consumer to take heed towards healthy choices.

So, there you have it, more power for you, the informed shopper.