A Glossary of common Cosmetics Terms and Definitions – Put Your Face On

If you’ve really delved into cosmetics and their makeup, their ingredients, and their properties, you’ve probably found that they can be quite technical.  But you don’t need all that technicality – you just want to look good. So we’ve compiled this glossary of cosmetics terms and definitions to help clear up the picture. Review it carefully, and your cosmetics will start to make more sense to you.  Don't forget to keep checking back as we will add to this as required.

• Acne :  Acne is an inflammatory skin disease that’s made evident by pimples that can appear on almost any part of the body, but are usually on the face. 
• Acrylic :  Something that’s acrylic has the property of being able to repel water or moisture. Allergen An allergen is something that produces an allergic reaction.
• AHA (Alpha hydroxy acids) :  A group of acids, often found in fruit, sour milk, sugar and others processed through bio-fermentation which, when applied to the skin, are believed to dissolve the glue-like lipids holding skin cells together in the stratum corneum; when their adhesive is dissolved, surface skin cells fall away, revealing younger-looking, fresher cells. 
• Allantoin :  Allantoin, extracted from a plant, is used in creams and skin preparations to heal and soothe.
• Almond oil :  Almond oil is vegetable oil made with almonds. It’s used in cosmetic products that soften the skin.
• Aloe Vera :  Aloe Vera is a plant that has wonderful healing and softening properties.  Many people have an Aloe Vera houseplant, because you can break off a piece and use the extract from inside to soothe and heal cuts, burns and abrasions.  It’s a very common ingredient in cosmetics because of it’s softening properties.
• Amino Acids :  The “building blocks” of protein.  A group of biological chemical compounds containing nitrogen; forms proteins.
• Anti-oxidant :  A substance which inhibits or prevents damage from free radicals.
• Astringent :  An astringent, as part of the facial cleansing system, is commonly known as toner, and it controls oily skin and lowers the pH of the face after cleansing.  Basically, it draws tissues together.
• Beeswax : Beeswax has been used in cosmetics for centuries, mostly for its emulsifying properties.
• Benzoyl Peroxide :  Benzoyl peroxide is a common ingredient found in acne treatments, used for its antibacterial properties.
• Bergamot :  The Bergamot tree is grown predominantly in southern Italy.  The Italians make an oil from the rind of the bergamot tree’s citrus fruit, which is good as an antiseptic, a cleanser, and a deodorizer.
• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) :  A group of acids, often found in flowering plants and herbs.  Most common is salicylic acid, believed to dissolve dead skin cells to leave a smooth, even surface.
• Blackhead :  A blackhead is a type of pimple that forms when the pores of the skin get clogged with oils and impurities.
• Botanical :  Botanical products are those that are made from plants.
• Botox :  Botox is simply the trade name for botulinum toxin A.  It’s a product that up until recent, was becoming increasingly popular for getting rid of wrinkles in the face, which is performed by injections.  Side effects, are now becoming more and more and in some media circles, producers refuse actors or actressess that have or are using Botox.  Why? Facial expressions are normal when not infested with Botox...now thats a paradox!
• Bronzers :  Bronzers are products that darken the skin to make it look naturally tanned.
• Buffer :  A buffer is a pH-balanced cleanser that makes the skin shinier and softer.
• Butcher’s Broom :  Butcher’s Broom is a plant extract that’s used to “sweep away” redness in the face.
• Callus :  A build-up of tough layers of skin is referred to as calluses.  They can be removed with a pumice stone, or you can get them professionally removed by an esthetician.
• Candela wax :  Candela wax is combined with oil to give more body to lipsticks.
• Carboxylic Acid :  Simply, a compound present in living organisms or organic, non-living substances that contains one or more carboxyl groups (•COOH).
• Carcinogen :  Any substance capable of or contributing to causing cancer.
• Cellulite :  Cellulite is the word used to refer to the fatty deposits that cause a dimpled or uneven appearance of the skin, usually around the thighs and buttocks.
• Ceramides :  Ceramides is a substance that protects the skin against moisture loss. It’s also synthetically-reproduced in skin care products.
• Chamomile :  We’ve probably all heard of chamomile tea; it’s made from a plant.  Well, it’s not only good for health by drinking, it’s also a great anti-inflammatory when used in lotions.
• Chelate :  Chelating agents are used in facial and body washes, body scrubs and shampoos to deactivate hard calcium and magnesium minerals which can form dulling, film-forming lime soap deposits when hard water comes in contact with the pure soaps.
• Citric acid :  Citric acid has many uses.  It’s used in skincare products as an astringent and an antioxidant.
• Clarifying :  Clarifying lotion is the toner part of a cleansing system that balances the pH of the skin after cleansing.
• Co-enzyme Q-10 :   Enzyme activator and anti-oxidant
• Collagen :  Present in the dermis, gives the skin shape and structure, keeping skin smooth and wrinkle-free when we are young, allowing wrinkles to form as the quality of collagen lessens with age.  Structurally, a protein made of amino acids: alanine, orginine, glycine, hydroxyproline, lysine proline.  Present in the skin, bone, ligaments and cartilage, makes up about 30% of total body protein.
• Cucumber juice :  Cucumber juice is used on the face to tighten the pores and stop the skin from drying out.
• Depilation :  Depilation is the process of removing hair from the skin.
• Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) :  DHA is a cosmetic product that bronzes the skin to resemble a tan.
• Echinacea :  Echinacea is a natural product that’s most commonly used to reduce flu or cold symptoms.  But it’s also used in some skin care products to stop itching and soothe the skin.
• Eczema :  Eczema is an inflammatory condition that causes the skin to become red, scaly and itchy.
• Elastin :  Highly elastic albumin-like protein fiber found in the dermis, blood vessels, capillaries and other elastic tissue in the body.  Allows skin to stretch then “snap back” when we are young; contributes to sagging skin as the quality of elastin is reduced with age.
• Electrolysis :  Electrolysis is a process where an electric current is applied to hair roots to kill them.
• Emollient :  An emollient is something that soothes and softens the skin.
• Emulsifier :  An emulsifier is a substance added to a product to thicken it.
• Epilation :  Epilation is the process of removing hair from beneath the surface of the skin.
• Essential Oil :  The raw material (flowers, leaves, stems, or roots, seeds, or seed peel, depending on the plant) is put in an alembic over water, and the volatile compounds, which require less vapor pressure to evaporate with the presence of steam, distill into a receiving vessel.  The upper portion is the oil, the lower being the hydrosol.  Most oils are distilled in a single process.  The exception is ylang-ylang, which takes 22 hours to complete distillation. It is fractionally distilled, producing several grades.  Many vendors sell fragrance oils which are blended synthetic aroma compounds or essential oils diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil.
• Esthetician :  An esthetician is a professional trained to give beauty treatments like facials, manicures, and pedicures.
• Evening primrose :  Evening primrose is a natural substance used as a toner or moisturizer.
• Exfoliate : When you exfoliate your skin you remove layers or scales.
• Fatty Acid :   A fat soluble acid, found in the epidermis and in cosmetic products. Includes oleic, stearic, palmitic and linoleic acids.
• Flavinoids (aka: Vitamin P) :   A variety of over 3000 plant chemicals with a characteristic yellow color (flavis is yellow in Latin), they are the most prevalent pigments in the plant kingdom next to chlorophyll and carotenoids.  All flavonoids are anti-oxidants; some are also circulatory stimulants, anti-irritants, anti-inflammatory or diuretics.  Anthocyanins, anthoxanthins, apigenins, flavones, isoflavones, flavonois and bioflavonols are all flavonoids.
• Free Radical :  One or more unpaired electrons capable of independent existence. In the skin, stabilizers itself by stealing an electron form the atoms forming lipids, collagen, elastin, enzymes, hormones, hormone receptors (see all), keratin, cell membranes, and other proteins, fats and amino acid substances.  Free radicals, whose attacks last less than a millisecond, are believed by many researchers to be the bottom line of aging and many diseases, including Alzheimer’s, arthritis, schizophrenia, Parkinson’s, birth defects such as Down’s syndrome, cancer, LDL cholesterol, lupus erythematosus, skin sclerosis and fibrosis, keloids, hyper- and hypo-pigmentation, acne, cellulite, overly sensitive skin, dandruff and even hangovers.  Types of free radicals include hydroxyl and superoxide radicals.
• Glycerin :  Glycerin can be found in moisturizers; it holds water particles together.
• Glycolic peel :  A glycolic peel is a method used to exfoliate or remove dead layers of skin.
• Glucans : Polysaccharides with immune stimulating abilities; found on the cell walls of yeast, oat, barley and other plants.
• Hormone Receptor : Molecules on cell walls that receive specific hormones into a cell.
• Hormones : The body’s chemical messengers; they stimulate or inhibit activities in the body, especially those involving growth, development, reproduction and other life processes. The skin is the largest hormone-producing organ of the body.
• Humectant :  A humectant is a substance that helps retain moisture.
• Hydrate :  When you hydrate skin, you add moisture to it.  Hydroquinone Hydroquinone is a white crystalline compound used in skincare products as a bleaching agent.
• Hyperpigmentation :  Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition caused by ultraviolet light from the sun, which darkens the skin.
• Hydroxy Group :  The chemical group that defines a hydroxy acid. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (see AHA) attach this group to the alpha site of the molecule, while Beta Hydroxy Acids (see BHA) attach it to the beta site.  Chemically, one or more hydroxyl groups (•OH) in addition to the carboxyl group (•COOH).
• Hydrocortisone :  An anti-inflammatory naturally produced by the adrenal glands and synthetically produced for use as a drug.  Applied to the skin in cases of itching, redness, blistering and other signs of allergy.  Also called cortisol.(Hard to replace naturally)
• Jojoba :  Jojoba is a multi-purpose substance, used as a moisturizer, as well as to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks.
• Karite :  Karite is a natural ingredient that keeps the skin healthy.
• Keratin :  Keratin is the natural substance that gives nails and hair their resiliency.  Kojic acid Kojic acid is used to lighten the color of the skin.
• Lactic acid :  Lactic acid is a natural ingredient in the body that moisturizes the skin.
• Lanolin :  Lanolin is a fatty substance made from wool, that moisturizes and emulsifies, as well as absorbs water.
• Licorice :  Licorice, in its natural form (not the kind we eat), is good for treating acne and soothing skin irritated by allergies.
• Lipids :  Found between epidermal cells and in cell membranes, these fatty substances (some of which are also attracted to water) make up a large family of ingredients and biological components that act as moisturizers, reduce moisture loss, restore skin’s supple, flexible nature, and reinforce the skin’s natural barrier protection. 
• Malic acid :  Malic acid comes from raw fruit, like apples, cherries and tomatoes, and is used as a glycolic agent.
• Mallow :  Mallow is a softening agent made from plants, that helps reduce inflammation, age lines, and eye swelling.
• Melanin :  Melanin is the dark pigment in hair and skin.
• Moisturizer In cosmetics, a moisturizer :   moisturizer is a cream that hydrates the skin.
• Natural :  A material in its 100% natural state, with the original, naturally-formed chemical bonds intact.  If the material is processed for use in cosmetics, only enough energy is used to change the physical form of the substance (grinding, chopping) leaving its chemical structure unaltered.
• Non-comedogenic :  Cosmetic products that are non-comedogenic (or they may be referred to as non-occlusive) don’t plug the pores, so don’t cause skin irritation or pimples.
• PABA :  PABA stands for para-aminobenzoic acid.  It’s a part of the vitamin B complex and is used in some sunscreen lotions.
• Panthenol :  Panthenol, or vitamin B5, is used as a moisturizer.
• Petrolatum :  Petrolatum is another word for petroleum jelly.  It’s used in creams as a lubricant, to soften and soothe the skin.  It also seals in moisture.
• pH :  A symbol representing the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution.  The pH scale extends from 0 to 14, with a value of 7 expressing neutral values of 6, 9 or lower expressing increased acidity and values of 7.1 or higher expressing increased alkalinity (base).In cosmetics, it measures the level of acidity.
• Photoaging :  Photoaging is damage to the skin caused by too much exposure to the sun.
• Photosensitivity :  Photosensitivity is a skin condition, manifested in rashes or swelling, that results from applying or eating certain chemicals or foods, then exposing the skin to sunlight.
• Phyto-cosmetics :  Phyto-cosmetics are cosmetics that are made with natural ingredients from plants in all forms of which two groups are present.  Botanic and Aromatic essences are used in synergy creating in essence a living product if created on a 100% pure natural base, meaning no chemical additives or preservatives other then the natural preservatives that present themselves. 
• Pore :  A pore is a tiny opening in the skin that serves as an outlet for sweat.
• Protein :   Composed of amino acids, proteins form most of a cell’s structure and cell products, which include keratin, collagen, elastin, melanin, enzymes, hormones and antibodies.
• Psoriasis :   Psoriasis is a skin disease that produces dry, itchy red patches.
• Retinol :  Deficiency in retinol, another name for vitamin A, results in a hardening and roughening of the skin.  Retinol is the main ingredient in products like Retin-A and Renova, that help to reduce wrinkles and heal acne.
• Rosacea :  Rosacea is a skin condition that produces red oily skin and acne.
• Royal Jelly :  Royal jelly is a natural product that’s taken from bees.  It has many medicinal purposes and creates generally good health, including healthy skin.
• Sage :  Sage, a member of the “parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme” group, is not just a herb for cooking. It also helps to disinfect and heal wounds.
• Salicylic acid :  Salicylic acid dissolves layers of the skin and is used in the treatment of eczema.
• Shea butter :  Shea butter is a fat made from the seeds of the shea tree.  It’s used in creams and lotions to soothe, soften and moisturize the skin.
• SPF :  SPF is an acronym for sun protection factor. Sunscreen products have an SPF; the higher the SPF, the more protection you get from sunburn.  Sunscreen Sunscreen is a product, usually a cream, that’s applied to the skin to protect it from getting sunburned.  The amount of protection is governed by its SPF.
• Sunblock : Sunblock, as opposed to sunscreen, is a lotion that actually blocks the ultraviolet rays of the sun. It’s more effective than sunscreen.
• Stratum Corneum (S.C.) :  The skin’s barrier layer; is the outermost layer of epidermis, about the thickness of one human hair, and is made up of 25-30 layers of flat, dead cells completely filled with keratin, a waterproof protein.
• Super Oxide Dismutase (SOD) :  Enzyme which scavenges free radicals by using superoxide to form its molecular body.  SOD is found throughout the body and is believed by some longevity researchers to be a primary element for long life. In the skin, it is destroyed by sunlight.
• Surfactant :  A surfactant is an ingredient that promotes an efficient mixture of oil and water.
• Tartaric acid :  Tartaric acid comes from apples and is used to promote the texture and tone of the skin.
• Tea tree oil :  Tea tree oil is a natural preservative that’s used in soap, shampoo and skin care products to clean and disinfect.
• Thyme :  Thyme, another herb primarily used for cooking, is also useful as an antiseptic and antibacterial agent.  You’ll find it in some soaps.
• Tocopherol :  Tocopherol is another name for the fat-soluble vitamin E, which aids in the skin reproduction process.
• Toner :  The toner is a part of the facial cleansing system.  It’s used after the cleanser, and cleans any last traces of dirt that may be left, as well as returning the skin to its natural pH.  Undertone Undertone is a term used to refer to the tone of the skin, like warm or cool.
• Vitamin A :  Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin.  A deficiency in vitamin A can cause toughening and hardening of the skin.
• Vitamin C :  Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin.  It’s used in anti-aging creams because of it’s preservative and antioxidant properties.
• Vitamin D :  Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin.  It promotes strong bones and teeth, but can be detrimental if collected in the skin as a result of too much exposure to the sun.
• Vitamin E :  Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin.  Its antioxidant properties make it useful for promoting healthy skin and hair.
• Vitamin K :  Phytanadione.  A component of green leafy vegetables first discovered in 1929.  Vitamin K is produced in the intestines and is linked to the production of clotting factors in the body.  Reportedly assists in healing broken capillaries and reabsorbing blood.
• Wheat germ oil :  Wheat germ oil, an ingredient found in natural cosmetics, aids in renewing skin cells. It also has a large quantity of vitamin E in it.
• Zinc oxide :  Zinc oxide is a chemical compound that was originally used as a whitening face powder around the beginning of the 20th century. It’s quite often found in sun protection products because of its ability to protect. It also soothes and heals the skin.

So there you have it.  And with your newfound knowledge, you can buy your cosmetics with the confidence that you know what you’re getting.  Whether you’re buying foundation, mascara, lipstick, nail polish, lotion, or any one of the many skin care products available on the market today, you’ll always be able to get just the right ones to enhance your natural beauty.

So now you’re in tune with cosmetics terms and definitions, go and “ put your face on ”.  And when you’re done, go and show off that natural beauty.  If we could whistle, we would. Because “ you look maaarvelous, dahling! ”